{"id":445114,"date":"2015-09-25T12:57:22","date_gmt":"2015-09-25T10:57:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dev.elorainweb.com\/?p=445114"},"modified":"2024-05-12T11:07:47","modified_gmt":"2024-05-12T09:07:47","slug":"business-of-fashion-21-septembre-2015-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/business-of-fashion-21-septembre-2015-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Business of Fashion &#8211; 21 septembre 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"<div style=\"text-align: justify; \">\nBusiness of Fashion &#8211; 21 septembre 2015<\/p>\n<p>New Calvin meets Old Hollywood<br \/>\nFrancisco Costa&#8217;s distressed glamour was a wonderful blur of sensuous sequinned slips, silken floor-length florals and sensational silk trousers.<\/p>\n<p>NEW YORK, United States \u2014 Francisco Costa was working on womenswear at Gucci in 2001 when Tom Ford stirred up controversy with his \u201cMarilyn Monroe\u201d collection, and even more with the Kate Moss campaign that accompanied it. So, Costa has form with blonde bombshells.<\/p>\n<p>For his latest Calvin Klein Collection, he was thinking about Jean Harlow, the original 1930s bombshell, whose publicity shots often featured her in a silk charmeuse slip dress that could, in another era, have slunk straight off Calvin\u2019s catwalk. One of Harlow\u2019s most famous movies was Dinner at Eight. Costa imagined her the morning after such a social event, a little worse for wear, a little d\u00e9shabill\u00e9. \u201cDistressed glamour,\u201d he called it. \u201cDeconstructed, decadent.\u201d It was obvious why they were called slip dresses. These examples slithered and drooped over the models\u2019 bodies, deemphasising their natural assets. Decadent, maybe, but also oddly na\u00efve \u2014 an impression that was reinforced by the unfinished hems and seams. Julia Nobis\u2019 chain-mail knit was laddered to rags. Even the silk sneakers were frayed. The coats were so big and raw they looked like a child\u2019s idea of a coat, like a work in progress. Same with those dresses loosely suspended from straps.<\/p>\n<p>Costa claimed he didn\u2019t usually pay much mind to evening-wear, but this collection had some of the evening before the morning after in the long, sensuous lines of slips lightly glossed with sequins, or silken floor-length florals and some sensational \u201csilk garter belt\u201d trousers. Costa outlined the dresses with slender chains, to which he\u2019d attached little charms and found objects. Jean Harlow? No, Joan of Arc, he said. Martyrdom, medievalism\u2026 where did they come from? But then, Costa has always been snappy with an obscure reference.<\/p>\n<p>Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez contributed a perfect musical counterpart in a soundtrack that mixed Nina Simone, Massive Attack and the Orb into a narcotic blur. The morning was, in the end, all a beautiful dream.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.businessoffashion.com\/articles\/fashion-show-review\/new-calvin-meets-old-hollywood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> www.businessoffashion.com <\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Business of Fashion &#8211; 21 septembre&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445114","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445114","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445114"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445114\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445114"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445114"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445114"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}