The Business of Fashion – 1er f\u00e9vrier 2016<\/p>\n
Severity and Lushness
\nNo longer couture\u2019s best-kept secret, Bouchra Jarrar is still flying too far under the radar.<\/p>\n
By Tim Blanks.<\/p>\n
PARIS, France \u2014\u00a0Bouchra Jarrar compared her show to creating a world, with everything counting in equal amounts to make the mood.\u00a0The soundtrack,\u00a0for instance,\u00a0Jarrar herself reading Marcel Proust over a sound tapestry by Frederic Sanchez that throbbed with the bass line from Bowie\u2019s\u00a0Subterraneans\u00a0and hints of Prince.\u00a0\u201cJust as important as the collection,\u201d the designer insisted.\u00a0It certainly offered striking amplification.
\nMaybe there\u00a0was\u00a0something of Prince in a little gold waistcoat over a\u00a0lace\u00a0jabot,\u00a0or the gold-buttoned, gold-braided drummer boy jacket (like Manet\u2019s famous Fifer).\u00a0Perhaps the Purple One even contributed a little to the\u00a0ambisextrous\u00a0nature of the collection.\u00a0But Jarrar has always walked a tantalising razor\u2019s edge between severity and lushness.\u00a0You could read that as masculine and feminine if you so desired.\u00a0This was her most glamorous expression of the duality to date.\u00a0The\u00a0tailoring\u00a0was as acute as ever, but the textures were amped all the way up,\u00a0with the dull glimmer of gold\u00a0jacquardwrapped in shaggiest badger, coyote and curly lamb and a redingote shaped from a mass of feathers.
\nThere was a mutter of paganism in the couture shows, with Schiaparelli\u2019s harvest maidens and Valentino\u2019s high priestesses.\u00a0Jarrar\u2019s take was intriguing, matching the shaggy wantonness to the precision of Napoleonic peacoats, jackets and gold-piped navy trousers.\u00a0Duality again.\u00a0It was more disciplined but just as convincing in an oversized coat in silver-shot houndstooth paired with an elegant column of creamy silk velvet.\u00a0Now\u00a0that\u00a0was Proustian, truly the stuff of memories.\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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