British Vogue – 22 septembre 2017<\/p>\n
Prada spring\/summer 2018 was “a white canvas filled with ideas”, said the renowned designer.
\nHere, we examine how to channel them.<\/p>\n
by OLIVIA SINGER<\/p>\n
INDIGITAL
\nThere are few designers who can present diverse eclecticism with such seamless allure as Miuccia Prada, nor any who set the tone for the seasons to come just like she does. It is for these reasons that the Prada show is one of the most hotly anticipated of the season: she is fashion\u2019s favourite genius, offering up collections that are simultaneously avant-garde in their conception, covetable on the shop floor, and revered by reviewers, customers, and fellow designers alike. \u201cBasically it was a white canvas filled with ideas,\u201d she said backstage after this mash-up collection of hits. Essentially, we all want to be a bit more Prada \u2013 and so, this season, here’s how.<\/p>\n
Eclecticism is key
\nOver the past couple of years, there has been a new trend for eclecticism \u2013 not just on the runways, but in the real-life wardrobes of women themselves. Wearing full look is out: instead, constructing your daily outfit from an assortment of different designers, different genres, different eras, is the modern way to dress. \u201cI was really interested in somebody who wants to be active and present nowadays \u2013 I don\u2019t want to say how they should dress, but how they should be free to experiment,\u201d said Mrs Prada backstage after the show. Here, studded sandals were teamed with satin bustiers layered over pinstripe shirting; pretty, puff-sleeved dresses worn over workwear trousers; Herringbone jackets given leopard-print lapels; even flared, Fifties skirts made the occasional appearance (in a thoroughly psychobilly fashion). It was diverse, to say the least \u2013 and thoroughly shoppable, although \u201cI don\u2019t want to be judged by sales,\u201d she laughed. \u201cMy life is so much more important than sales.\u201d<\/p>\n
INDIGITAL<\/p>\n
Get on Spotify
\nWhile talking about the soundtrack to a collection can often be a handy way to sidestep discussion of the clothes, the music that accompanies Miuccia Prada\u2019s runways are routinely as considered as the looks she sends out. This time, the likes of Lana del Rey, Nirvana, Nina Simone, Sinead O\u2019Connor, Suzanne Vega, The Cure, PJ Harvey and L7 all made notable sonic appearances in a poetic cross-genre medley. \u201cThey are different people, and each one has their own voice,\u201d she said. This was a soundtrack for a generation who curate Spotify playlists rather than put on records, and it was brilliant. \u201cIt was a little bit like the bootleg that you might get in a certain genre of movie,\u201d said Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez, the composer behind the music. \u201cI think there is something in the soundtrack that shows all these different women, each who represent something so strong in a certain moment of time.\u201d And it was their combined eclecticism that made this music feel so thoroughly contemporary, so authentically 2017.<\/p>\n
INDIGITAL<\/p>\n
Be strong (particularly right now)
\n\u201cI want women to be strong because still there is so much against us. So we need a lot of cleverness, intelligence, and strength… particularly now,\u201d Mrs Prada continued \u2013 and these women were: they were punk, wearing mish-mash combinations of studs and animal print, sometimes the pieces themselves looking like two distinct personas spliced together. There was a confidence in such an approach that was distinctly Mrs Prada \u2013 remember that John Waters Miu Miu collection? \u2013 but it felt fresh and relevant, particularly when teamed with bare faces and gamine haircuts (how many models got a Guido chop specially for the occasion is yet to be noted, but it looks like plenty).<\/p>\n
INDIGITAL<\/p>\n
Reference\u2026 yourself
\nSouped-up versions of pre-existing pointy shoes; the same, sportif sock that Prada debuted for Resort 2018; the nylon fabric that propelled this brand to the forefront of fashion: this was a collection that riffed on some former offerings \u2013 after all, if everyone else is doing it, why shouldn\u2019t she? Those who have noted the trend for transparency that has swept the spring\/summer 2018 shows might remember that it was the Prada Resort show that first introduced the filmy fabrications now appearing on every runway \u2013 because, where Mrs Prada goes, the rest are sure to follow. It won\u2019t be until next season that we see the impact of this collection, but it\u2019s sure to make a mark.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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