Dazed DIgital – 1er octobre 2017<\/p>\n
For SS18, Rei Kawakubo enlisted the work of nine artists from the 16th century to today to illustrate the sculptural looks<\/p>\n
There are very few designers in the world who can make you forget the fact you haven\u2019t had a proper night\u2019s sleep in several weeks (and that it shows), or that you\u2019ve suddenly come down with the flu (hi everyone). Even if you\u2019re feeling your best, it\u2019s rare to have your attention captivated so fully for 20 minutes that your mouth is hanging open. Rei Kawakubo is one of those designers, and yesterday in Paris her Comme des Gar\u00e7ons show was even more proof of that fact. As if you needed it. Here\u2019s what went down.<\/p>\n
THE SHOW WAS HELD AT THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY
\n…in a long hall with polished wooden floors and ornamental glass panels hanging from the ceiling. (Also, appropriately I think I spotted Gosha Rubchinskiy pre-show, not far from a giant unfurled Russian flag). The white runway was raised in a zig-zag across the room, and models stepped out and walked its length one at a time.<\/p>\n
REI\u2019S WORDS OF THE SEASON WERE MULTIDIMENSIONAL GRAFFITI
\nWhich might help to explain why the collection mashed up colourful art\/illustrations with the sculptural looks that are tradition at Comme des Gar\u00e7ons. This wasn\u2019t as basic as a tag you might find on the side of a bus shelter though, Kawakubo\u2019s graffiti was of course much more conceptual \u2013 her silhouettes exploded outwards and had holes which revealed many layers of different fabrics. It was like the material version of when a wall is coated with different artists\u2019 work \u2013 a mosaic of colours and styles. <\/p>\n
IT FEATURED THE WORK OF NINE ARTISTS
\nFrom 16th century Italian Giuseppe Arcimboldo, whose fruit face portraits appeared on the first and fifth looks, to E-Boy whose pixel landscapes cropped up on look twelve. The florals were courtesy of Dutch artist Abraham Mignon and as for the giant anime-looking girl with glinting eyes? The work of Japanese-born Macoto Takahashi. The headpieces by Julien d\u2019Ys, works of art in themselves, were made up of items that looked like the kitschy trappings of girlhood like toys, cupcake iPhone cases, kawaii Hello Kitty dolls and plastic rings.<\/p>\n
THE SHOES WERE NIKES\u2026 WITH HEELS
\nContinuing Nike\u2019s fruitful partnership with CdG, this season saw models wear Nike shoes \u2013 or rather, the hollow shell of Nike boxing shoes, which were placed over the top of pair of clog-like heels. They came in colour combinations of blue and white, green and white, and, naturally, black.<\/p>\n
THE MUSIC WAS TRENDY, TACKY, SAD AND BRILLIANT
\nFKA twigs blended into this year\u2019s smash dance hit \u201cFalling\u201d by Alesso, and then, even more unexpectedly, \u201cCloser\u201d by 80s pop singer Lisa Stansfield. It all concluded with \u201cAdagio for Strings\u201d \u2013 a version of the famous piece written by Samuel Barber conducted by Andr\u00e9 Previn, and taken from the soundtrack of David Lynch\u2019s The Elephant Man. Someone wrote a book about how this is \u201cthe saddest music ever written\u201d \u2013 and you would have had to be made of pretty strong stuff not to have been moved as the song swelled and the models filed back out onto the runway for the finale. There was something about the combination of the childlike, girlish accessories with the heart-wrenching music that was extremely affecting \u2013 beyond the graffiti byline, it felt like Kawakubo was addressing very human ideas of childhood innocence, lost youth and the passage of time.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Dazed DIgital – 1er octobre 2017…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445252","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445252","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445252"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445252\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445252"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445252"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445252"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}