Financial Times – 30 septembre 2018<\/p>\n
Rei Kawakubo was \u2018fumbling around in the dark\u2019 this season. And the result was incredibly moving<\/p>\n
How do designers approach the challenge of coming up with something new each season? In many cases they don\u2019t \u2014 doing nothing with your design style is certainly a method that\u2019s working well for Celine\u2019s new creative director Hedi Slimane. But, for those designers really looking to challenge the parameters of fashion, and even clothes themselves, the quest to find a new trouser cut, or fabrication, can bring with it a high degree of angst.<\/p>\n
Shortly before the Comme des Gar\u00e7ons SS19 show, the brand sent out a statement in which the designer Rei Kawakubo described her frustration with a process that must always seek the \u201cnext\u201d. For the past 10 collections she has shown huge abstracted shapes on her catwalk, like sculptures, which have then inspired the commercial collection that goes in store. But Kawakubo, who was the subject of an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art\u2019s Costume Institute in 2017 and is one of only a few designers whose work could be described as art, is finished with that cycle.<\/p>\n
For SS19 she wanted to do something new, but had found herself \u201cfumbling around the dark\u201d. The result of that fumble was a \u201cmini show\u201d which she described as \u201cquiet, serene and internal\u201d. It was small, staged before only 100 or so guests, and curiously affecting. The 30 looks, featuring deconstructed men\u2019s tailoring and richly embellished outerwear, tattoo-print stocking mesh and chained Nike trainers, looked pretty normal from the front, but from the side revealed strange lumps and tumours. The first look, a beaded evening suit, was severed across the stomach to reveal a pregnant swell. Further looks were similarly \u201cfeminine\u201d, although the slashed stomachs became more vicious and jagged as the show went on. Then things were tied up, quilted, or worn with chains. The tumours became more unnatural also, great padded details that protruded from the hips and ribs.<\/p>\n
It was a real heartbreaker. With its Tom Waits soundtrack, exposed and swollen stomachs and white-haired girls (as though the women had prematurely aged), Kawakubo conjured quite the mood. Do I know that this \u201cinternal\u201d show was about the griefs of childlessness? Or the sacrifices of a professional woman, now in her seventies, who has dedicated her life to building a \u20ac200m brand? Or that those brand responsibilities have near devoured her \u2014 like a cancer? I have no idea. But that was what it looked like. Kawakubo\u2019s fumble made me painfully sad.\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Financial Times – 30 septembre 2018…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445337","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445337","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445337"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445337\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445337"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445337"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445337"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}