{"id":445083,"date":"2015-03-22T20:22:31","date_gmt":"2015-03-22T18:22:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dev.elorainweb.com\/?p=445083"},"modified":"2024-05-12T11:03:40","modified_gmt":"2024-05-12T09:03:40","slug":"thomas-tait-aw15-dazed-com-february-2015-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/thomas-tait-aw15-dazed-com-february-2015-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Thomas Tait AW15 – Dazed.com – February 2015"},"content":{"rendered":"
\nThomas Tait AW15 – Dazed.com – February 2015<\/p>\n

Dario Argento\u2019s horror \u2018Suspiria\u2019 inspires an immersive experience staged in near total darkness \u2013 listen to Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez\u2019s atmospheric soundscape here<\/p>\n

Initial reaction:<\/p>\n

A welcome change of pace in a go-faster industry with increasingly less time to immerse yourself in anything. Thomas Tait sent his models out into Westminster University\u2019s subterranean space in near total darkness, only lit up by snaking, glitchy rectangles of light that showed the way as they walked very slowly across the floor. It was frustratingly difficult to see the clothes at times, but it made you sit up and concentrate (hard) and really look at the garments. Like Giles Deacon\u2019s return to a theatrical runway presentation yesterday, it brought a sense of emotion and drama to the catwalk after years of mechanical and detached conveyor belt shows.<\/p>\n

What lies beneath:<\/p>\n

Tait is one of fashion\u2019s abstract thinkers and he doesn\u2019t do pre-packaged theme collections. Backstage, he told us about how he\u2019d been trying to explain the garments over the phone to people and it had somehow sounded a bit pedestrian. Of course, it was anything but. The languid, asymmetrical silks, innocent sailor collars and Tait\u2019s kick-ass signature sculpted outerwear were accompanied by what he called \u201cwhite trashy\u201d elements and the \u201cbionic and supernatural\u201d. Sleeveless mink gilets played on the wrongness of 70s\/80s furs with leather inserts and jackets had oversize metal hardware with big zipper rings \u2013 used slyly in places like the nipple region. It was normal made unnerving, like a piece by photographer Gregory Crewdson whose way of turning the everyday into something you can\u2019t quite put your finger on had been on Tait\u2019s mind. There was clearly darkness here in more ways than the set. The invitation\u2019s still from Dario Argento\u2019s 1977 horror masterpiece Suspiria was echoed on pleated dresses \u2013 a deliberately lo-fi foray into digital print for Tait, made from screen captures done on his laptop while watching films in bed. \u201cThey\u2019re kind of really shitty and a lazy way of doing some kind of informal research. I thought it would be really interesting to make these highly intricate garments and undercut them with a crap image from the film I love.\u201d Suspiria\u2019s nearly all-female cast and explorations of the female psyche really ring true with Tait, who doesn\u2019t bend to mainstream society\u2019s obsession with the female body as a Photoshopped sex object. Case in point: a black leather and patent coat with a tuft of red mink showing like a defiant hairy armpit.<\/p>\n

New territories:<\/p>\n

Winning LVMH\u2019s Young Fashion Designer prize last year has meant a huge difference to Tait, who like so many young designers struggles with keeping a business afloat \u2013 not for lack of ideas, but funds. \u201cThe money kept me from going out of business to be honest,\u201d he said. The designer has always produced things to a very high standard, but this season he took it up a notch: LVMH have introduced him to three factories in Europe, who were all in attendance at the show to see the results of their work. \u201cIt\u2019s really great because it\u2019s like, this is what it\u2019s meant to look like,\u201d he said. For the soundtrack, Tait worked with Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez for the first time. \u201cIt was amazing because I collected all the stuff I\u2019d done in the past and sent him paragraphs of what I wanted to do for this show and he came back to me with huge zip files of different ideas and took all the old soundtracks and decomposed them and was like, \u2018This is what you sound like\u2019, but in little fragments. He totally got it,\u201d Tait said of the dark and engulfing moodscape.<\/p>\n

dazeddigital.com<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thomas Tait AW15 – Dazed.com –…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445083","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445083","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445083"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445083\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445083"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445083"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445083"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}