Business of Fashion – 20 juin 2016<\/p>\n
Prada’s Summer of love
\nYouthful idealism is Miuccia Prada’s antidote to a world full of violence and fear.<\/p>\n
BY TIM BLANKS
\nMILAN, Italy \u2014 Miuccia Prada insisted she\u2019d never heard the word \u201cwanderlust\u201d before, but it lit a fire under her new collection, with its tribe of boys and girls carrying their lives in their backpacks as they trekked into the unknown in their sandals and socks.<\/p>\n
If travel was the inspiration for the last Prada collections, Mrs P saw those excursions as a journey through the past. Here, we were gazing into the gaping maw of an uncertain future. \u201cI\u2019m full of fear,\u201d she said. \u201cI\u2019m optimistic on principle, but I see what is happening around, and my fear is mounting.\u201d<\/p>\n
Still, she offered a fully formed testament to hope, or, at least, the hope that accompanies youthful idealism. The show\u2019s rave-iness evoked the legendary, ecstasy-soaked summers of love in the late 1980s, Frederic Sanchez\u2019s soundtrack mixing the electro splendour of Faithless with Bedtime Story, the song Bjork wrote for Madonna. \u201cTravelling to the arms of unconsciousness,\u201d sang Madonna. \u201cThe trip always has different meanings,\u201d Miuccia added cryptically.<\/p>\n
For an incisive thinker like Miuccia Prada, it shouldn\u2019t be difficult to put together a collection that repudiates all the bullshit that male-dominated constructs are spewing into the cultural mainstream. There was a sense here that she\u2019s maybe just getting started. In the past, Prada\u2019s collections for men have emphasized male vulnerability, ineffectuality even. What was shown today \u2014 a men\u2019s collection for Spring 2017, a Resort collection for women \u2014 emphasised the commonality in diversity. The issue is no longer vulnerability; it\u2019s survival, regardless of gender, race, colour or creed.<\/p>\n
So both collections were about ready-for-anything mobility. It was a fashion show so boys\u2019 backpacks dangled a handy pair of dress shoes. The girls\u2019 dangled heels. So did the last male model\u2019s. (That\u2019s ready for anything.) But the overriding message was The Mix. There was an element of customisation, with embroidery and doodads and ethnic flourishes, ways to individualise your stuff. Otherwise, there was just that reassuring sense of tribalism. Back in some much more secure day, Prada created a world around a black nylon backpack. There it was today, nestled in the middle of a riot of pattern and colour. Back to the source \u2014 you know we have no choice but to go there.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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