Dazed – 7 janvier 2017<\/p>\n
Craig Green reveals the meaning of his anonymous travellers
\nThe designer opens up about his AW17 collection, presented yesterday at London Fashion Week Men\u2019s<\/p>\n
Craig Green doesn\u2019t really like talking about what his work means and much prefers people to come up with their own interpretations. His workwear-informed clothes are honest and sincere, and every time his words about them approach something more analytical, he checks himself in a self-effacingly jolly way, worrying he\u2019ll sound too \u201cfruity and conceptual\u201d.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s hard not to go into analytical mode when you watch his collections unfold, though, because they\u2019re always loaded with meaning. Last night we were lost at sea with fishermen in sou\u2019wester hats and quilting with life vest-like attachments on their backs, styled by Dazed\u2019s creative director Robbie Spencer. It was a beautifully haunting show where Aleister Crowley\u2019s ominous voice and folksy Martyn Bates reverberated on the soundtrack, overlaid with faint radar sounds searching the waters ahead. The vibe: Is there anybody out there?<\/p>\n
\u201cI was watching this programme about old fishermen that used to leave their family and loved ones and not come back for thirty years, and there was no way to communicate with them for that entire period of time,\u201d Green said when we spoke a couple of days before his show. That sense of isolation was felt throughout: a dark and foreboding kind of poetry, with waves crashing all around and bottomless black waters below. It felt like a commentary on the modern condition. We have all these ways of communicating (and presenting an idealised version of our lives) but at the same time it\u2019s breeding feelings of loneliness for many, of being lost and aimlessly drifting around while everyone else is seemingly barging ahead full steam.<\/p>\n
We\u2019re under pressure all the time and Green\u2019s recurring themes around protection had taken him to old cast iron pressure-resistant diving suits, which were translated into soft, padded garments wrapped in oxygen tubes \u2013 comforting but eerie. The team had also been looking at uniforms. \u201cWe found this book of all these military and police uniforms and we showed it to someone and they said \u2018oh, it\u2019s like real men\u2019. And we were like, what\u2019s real men?!\u201d he says, chuckling at that archaic notion of what \u2018masculinity\u2019 entails. \u201cIt\u2019s that weird idea of the man as the hero.\u201d<\/p>\n
Green\u2019s boys wear their insecurities or anxieties on their sleeve, quite literally wrapped in padding. Or bits of embroidered carpet picked up on their travels that were stitched together into oversize pieces. \u201cCarpet people\u201d, Green called them. \u201cBasically a man as a walking carpet idea.\u201d Not to walk all over, but definitely the antithesis to masculinity as the hard, assertive man.<\/p>\n
\u201cWe found this book of all these military and police uniforms and we showed it to someone and they said \u2018oh, it\u2019s like real men\u2019. And we were like, what\u2019s real men?!\u201d \u2013 Craig Green
\nSci-fi \u2013 which might not be the first thing you think about in terms of Craig Green\u2019s work \u2013 had been on his mind as well. \u201cThere\u2019s something very sci-fi about (sea explorations) and I feel like everything sci-fi is based around something to do with the sea,\u201d Green noted. Here it was the abstract and philosophical aspects of the genre that came through: ideas of the unknown, a voyage into unchartered territory \u2013 the kind of existential or semi-religious themes you find in Battlestar Galactica, The OA or Prometheus (coincidentally, Green has made costumes for the imminent Alien: Covenant).<\/p>\n
\u201cI was reading about people that have phobias of the sea and how they\u2019re directly linked to people that have anxiety about not knowing things and fear of the unknown,\u201d he said. As far as the great unknown goes, the future is probably one of the scariest things out there, science fiction or not. But there was a flicker of a lighthouse here in all the sea metaphors, at least in Green\u2019s mind. \u201cIt\u2019s the romantic idea of all of that rather than the pessimistic view of it.\u201d Romance triumphing over pessimism and dread \u2013 it was a beautiful thought to start the menswear season on.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Dazed – 7 janvier 2017 Craig…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445189","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445189","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445189"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445189\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445189"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445189"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445189"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}