Business Of Fashion – 24 juin 2017<\/p>\n
By Tim Blanks<\/p>\n
Elevated catwalks are anathema to Rei Kawakubo, but the raised square that filled the centre of the Salle Wagram for Comme Des Garcons\u2019 show on Friday afternoon looked a lot like a dancefloor in a nightclub. And sure enough, when Frederic Sanchez\u2019s soundtrack blared and the coloured spots started to spin and a passel of boys shuffled onto the floor, Comme54 sprang into awkward life.<\/p>\n
Kawakubo gave Sanchez a one-word brief: DISCO! He mutated it a little: as much disco as a skewed spin on rave. The clothes followed suit: Madchester made even madder, like the models\u2019 Liam Gallagher hairdos, exaggerated and drowned in sparkly gloop. Glitter cascaded over Comme signatures like the baggy shorts and the elongated, voluminous jackets.<\/p>\n
Kawakubo\u2019s message was this: What\u2019s on the inside matters. All the jackets were turned inside out. So the incredible patchwork of sparkle, fake fur and animal print that we saw was actually a lining? You could scarcely picture a more vivid analogy for the crazy turmoil of anyone\u2019s inner life at this particular moment in the decline and fall of western civilization. But it was so upbeat, sweet even. There were shirts and waistcoats that looked like they\u2019d been composed of candy. And the stumbling self-consciousness of the models (who really wants to dance in front of an audience?) was a charming antidote to the otherwise-frostiness of this season\u2019s runways. The takeaway was a fierce optimism. It\u2019s not always been an attitude that easily attaches itself to Comme des Garcons (collaborator Mona<\/p>\n
The takeaway was a fierce optimism. It\u2019s not always been an attitude that easily attaches itself to Comme des Garcons (collaborator Mona Luison\u2019s doll-parts jackets harked back to Kawakubo\u2019s ability to effortlessly disconcert) , but in the wake of a major exhibition at New York\u2019s Metropolitan Museum, the designer\u2019s unique position in fashion has been brought to the fascinated attention of a much wider audience. You have to imagine that feels good. Well, something made her want to throw a party.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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