Vogue UK – 22 f\u00e9vrier 2018<\/p>\n
by ELISA CARASSAI<\/p>\n
MILAN Fashion Week rolls round again, and anticipation is mounting for the Prada show. But it’s not just about the clothes – we’re just as eager to see the sets. A long-standing collaborator with Rem Koolhaas’ design studio, AMO (it also designed Fondazione Prada in Milan), Miuccia Prada has, since 2007, been welcoming her guests with scenographic theatres of all types at Prada HQ on Via Fogazzaro, minus a couple of exceptions. Her most recent pre-fall show, for instance, was held in the warehouse that holds pending artworks for Fondazione Prada, causing fashion insiders to speculate on this season’s location. Here, we relive 11 spectacular sets that still pack a visual punch.<\/p>\n
Autumn\/winter 2013 menswear: \u00ab\u00a0The Ideal House\u00a0\u00bb
\nThis was the season that AMO studio collaborated with American-German company Knoll on a series of design objects for the ‘ideal home’, with an interior populated with geometric furniture, objects and manifestations of everyday life, with screens that featured interior and exterior views onto a cityscape.<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2014 menswear: \u00ab\u00a0Menacing Paradise\u00a0\u00bb
\nConceived by AMO studio as an abstract representation of a small town, the spring menswear set was lined with murals of tropical palm trees, sunsets, helicopters and \u00ab\u00a0menacing\u00a0\u00bb shapes. Helicopters whirled on the soundtrack to add to the threatening mood.<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2014: \u00ab\u00a0In the Heart of the Multitude\u00a0\u00bb
\nArtists came together to collaborate with Prada on a series of murals and illustrations that mused on themes of femininity, representation, power and multiplicity. Inspired by the politically-charged murals of Diego Rivera, muralists including Gabriel Specter and Stinkfish and illustrators Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Mornet saw their work almost enveloping the audience – and making its way onto clothes. The main surprise? Britney Spears was on the soundtrack.<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2015: \u00ab\u00a0Outdoor \/ Indoor \/ Outdoor, 2\u00a0\u00bb
\nFor the previous menswear show, AMO had transformed the show space into a swimming pool. They reversed the impulse for the womenswear show, erecting purple dunes which were a stunning and unexpected backdrop, with models pacing through the desert on a brown carpet that lined the edges of the set.<\/p>\n
Autumn\/winter 2015: \u00ab\u00a0The Infinite Palace\u00a0\u00bb
\nBlue and black \u00ab\u00a0fake\u00a0\u00bb marble lined the walls of the men’s show, which sported metal ceilings and metal floors; Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez put Front 242 on the soundtrack.<\/p>\n
Autumn\/winter 2015 womenswear: \u00ab\u00a0The Infinite Palace\u00a0\u00bb
\nA Wes Anderson-like palette of pale greens and sugary pinks covered the walls of the womenswear show space, punctuated by aluminium inserts on doors and floors to create a hyper-intimate environment. \u00ab\u00a0Sweet\u2026\u00a0\u00bb said Miuccia Prada, of the sugar-spun saturation of colour on the clothes and the set, \u00ab\u00a0but violent. I wanted impact. How can you be strong with pastels?\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2016: \u00ab\u00a0Indefinite Hangar\u00a0\u00bb
\nBilled as an investigation of \u00ab\u00a0the perception of continuous space through an invasion of the ceiling\u00a0\u00bb, the spring set featured fibreglass and polycarbonate \u00ab\u00a0stalactites\u00a0\u00bb hanging from the ceiling, illuminated by an orange glow.<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2017: \u00ab\u00a0Total Space\u00a0\u00bb
\nThis was the show where AMO Studio built a mesh ramp on the remnants of the previous season’s set. Defined as \u00ab\u00a0layers of different architectures\u00a0\u00bb, the ramp was illuminated by lights, and was conceived by American director David O. Russell as a surreal dreamscape, and featured a preview of his collaborative short film with Prada, Past Forward.<\/p>\n
Resort 2018: \u00ab\u00a0Suspended Ensemble\u00a0\u00bb
\nFor the first time, Prada showcased its resort show in its newly renovated Osservatorio, a top-floor exhibition space for contemporary photography in the Prada store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. Millennial pink and mirrors combined with benches oriented towards a rooftop view of the Galleria’s dome.<\/p>\n
Autumn\/winter 2017: \u00ab\u00a0Teen Dream\u00a0\u00bb
\nInspired by the \u00ab\u00a0bare simplicity of everyday life\u00a0\u00bb, AMO studio constructed a series of domestic set-ups lined by an extending wooden ‘boiserie’, a partition between the private, Seventies-inspired teenage bedrooms and an urban front covered in posters.<\/p>\n
Spring\/summer 2018: \u00ab\u00a0A Story Within a Story\u00a0\u00bb
\nDesigned by AMO studio in collaboration with NYC-based design studio 2×4, the spring set featured the work of eight visionary artists – including Brigid Elva, Giuliana Maldini, Trina Robbins and Fiona Staples – whose artistic aim was to illustrate women in a \u00ab\u00a0uniquely empowering way\u00a0\u00bb. The graphic panels also included archival work of Tarp\u00e9 Mills, creator of the first female action hero – which popped up again in the collection.\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Vogue UK – 22 f\u00e9vrier 2018…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-445284","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fs-press"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445284","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=445284"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/445284\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=445284"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=445284"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fredericsanchez.com\/fredericsanchez\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=445284"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}