Business Of Fashion – 26 f\u00e9vrier 2018<\/p>\n
A Plurality of Women at Marni<\/p>\n
There is a fundamental naivet\u00e9 in Francesco Risso\u2019s approach, as well as an effort to impose order on chaos, like a kid making sense of the world.<\/p>\n
BY TIM BLANKS<\/p>\n
MILAN, Italy \u2014 \u201cElementary, my dear Watson,\u201d said Sherlock Holmes as he unpicked a web of clues to solve another case. Francesco Risso loved the notion of building a collection the same way: clues, codes, signs, a solution. And, like Sherlock, he also described the process as elementary.<\/p>\n
But that is the fundamental naivet\u00e9 of Risso\u2019s approach to Marni. On the one hand, there were the raw hems, the dangling threads and primitive top-stitching, the exaggerated proportions, the flagrant colour scheme (\u201cwomen screaming with colour,\u201d he said). Elementary. On the other, there was the effort to impose order on chaos, like a kid making sense of the world. We sat on tightly wrapped bales of bedding and clothes. \u201cAfter the men\u2019s show, I liked the idea of controlling the waste of stuff,\u201d said Risso. Instead of the fur that Marni\u2019s business was founded on, there was an impressive topcoat cut from the felt blankets removal men use for packing. Recycling, connecting with the natural world\u2026he liked that idea too. \u201cNature brings us into primitivism,\u201d he added. His models wore peacock feathers trailing dramatically from their ears.<\/p>\n
It was the second time this week that Victor Frankenstein \u2014 the literary inspiration for anyone engaged in the act of roughly stitching new life together \u2013 reared his head. Alessandro Michele is engaged on a similar project at Gucci. Risso talked about a \u201cSiamese union,\u00a0\u00bb as in twins conjoined. The essence of the collection was that half-and-half: a coat that was half green python, half black leather, another that was industrial felting and hot pink wool. There were schizophrenic dresses that felt sophisticated on this side, turned inside out to lining on that. In one of those na\u00efve leaps of inspiration that seem to be characteristic of Risso, he extended the idea of the Siamese into a whiskery cat motif for coats and jackets. Soundtrackist Frederic Sanchez complemented it with a recording of opera singers\u2019 warm-up exercises. They apparently \u201cmiaow\u201d over and over again. Weird and wonderful.<\/p>\n
\u00ab\u00a0If this was a movie, it would be called ‘The I, the We, The Army of Me,'\u00a0\u00bb said Risso. We rocked back on our heels and thought about that for a moment. Fortunately, there were shownotes to clarify. \u201cThe individual and the collective. Being one and safety in numbers. A plurality of women\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n
There was joy and fun in Risso\u2019s Marni, but there was a message too.\n<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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