Vogue – 21 fevrier 2019<\/p>\n
It\u2019s a heavy season in Milan. With the monumental news of Karl Lagerfeld\u2019s death on Tuesday, fashion descended upon the Italian fashion capital in the wake of accusations made against Gucci and Prada that products of theirs referenced blackface. In Prada\u2019s case it was a keyring in the image of a monkey with red lips. After strongly denying any such intention when the news broke in December, last week the house further announced the creation of a diversity council chaired by Theaster Gates and Ava DuVernay. Going forward, the artist and the film-maker will be in dialogue with Prada, making sure the company\u2019s merchandise never evokes any such reference again. Gucci has taken similar action, but the weight of these incidents has transformed the industry in record time. And while it will unquestionably shape a better future for fashion, it currently leaves a thick cloud of disenchantment around the Milanese shows.<\/p>\n
\u201cFear is around us. Danger and fear,\u201d Miuccia Prada said after her show, which expanded the horror themes she investigated in her menswear collection last month. She continued her studies in interpretations of fear, from the terrifying \u2013 unadorned military tunics, combat uniforms and minimalism \u2013 to comical graphics like Frankenstein\u2019s monster lifted from what she called \u201ctrashy horror movies\u201d. \u201cYou have to make light because it\u2019s still a fashion show,\u201d the designer shrugged, also name-checking her fuzzy faux fur neon backpacks on that note. Mrs Prada said she added a sense of romance in all the flowers and lace that prettified an otherwise austere collection, seeking to battle the mood of fear with \u201ca source of good\u201d. \u201cEach girl was a piece of a love story of my vision of love,\u201d she explained. <\/p>\n
The good with the evil? Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sanchez sampled an instrumental version of Lady Gaga\u2019s \u2018Bad Romance\u2019 on an exceptionally brilliant soundtrack that deserved its own interpretive thesis. From the thought-provoking titles of songs like Marilyn Manson\u2019s cover of \u2018I Put A Spell On You\u2019 and Qual\u2019s \u2018Existential Nihilism\u2019, to expressive horror themes like Tales From the Crypt and the opening tune from The X-Files, he very nearly \u2013 but not quite \u2013 outdid his own soundtrack from January\u2019s Prada men\u2019s show, which featured The Addams Family symphony. Wednesday Addams made several appearances in Thursday\u2019s collection, evoking the familiar idea of nihilistic teenagers \u2013 or anti-social adults \u2013 who unsubscribe from a world that they fear; in which they feel misinterpreted and mistreated. \u201cFrankenstein\u2019s monster was rejected, but even he was loved,\u201d Mrs Prada reflected, perhaps forgetting how that story ended. <\/p>\n
But for all the romance and gallows humour she imbued her collection with in huge flower and monster motifs on silk or knitted dresses and leather skirts \u2013 sure to sell up a storm come autumn \u2013 the sentiment was undeniably ominous. Asked what it is she fears so much, the designer talked about wars. \u201cAny kind around us. Vile parties and the vile situation in Europe. Strong contrasts growing and growing. In another si\u00e8cle there would already be a war. I really fear that.\u201d It\u2019s not an uncommon theory: around every turn of the century, a few years before or after the clock strikes twelve, radical revolutions and wars have changed the world with tumultuous impact. What that means in the digital age is anyone\u2019s guess, but the dialogue Mrs Prada has now initiated within her own company is a sensible precaution.<\/p>\n
\u201cWe work for rich people. We do rich clothes,\u201d she said on the topic of designers and their social conscience. \u201cBut somehow fashion is very relevant. There is a request for fashion to talk about political subjects. But to approach political subjects in a world of pleasant things is very difficult. You\u2019ll be criticised. The work is serious but it\u2019s also for pleasure.\u201d Paradoxically \u2013 or perhaps not at all \u2013 more than her light-hearted horror graphics and romantic floral motifs, it was Prada\u2019s decadent cocktails dresses, glamorous draping and austere tailoring and military garb that felt most desirable for the moment we currently live in.<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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